In 2006, the co-founder and CEO of Whole Foods Market, John
Mackey, wrote a letter to Michael Pollan taking issue with the way in which his
company was portrayed in The Omnivore’s
Dilemma, as well as in a column for TimeSelect
and some of his public remarks. If you haven’t read or heard any of this, the
very basic version of what Pollan says is that Whole Foods uses words like
“local” and “organic” to put on a positive face – for health, for the
environment, for animals, etc. – when in fact that is false advertising most of
the time. Mackey took issue with Pollan’s angle – which was more as a surface
consumer than as an investigative reporter – and re-pointed out his own
investment and interest in those food movements, and the issues that surround
supporting them when you run a business as large as Whole Foods.
Pollan wrote Mackey a letter in return – the letter that I
decided to focus on for this assignment – directly addressing the points he
made. At one point he writes, “I confess I am of two minds in deciding how to
respond to the substance of your letter: whether I should attempt to cast doubt
on your claims that Whole Foods wholeheartedly supports local, artisanal, and
grass-based agriculture, or whether to simply applaud and encourage your
inclinations in that direction.”
In the end he does both, fully and wholeheartedly. The nature of the letter is
very genuine. Pollan is stern and understanding at the same time, and that
rings true throughout.
At the end of the
letter Pollan says he looks forward to continuing the dialogue and, aptly,
Mackey wrote another letter back. I think their dialogue through these letters
reveals something great – not just Mackey’s face behind the scenes of Pollan’s
research and approach to tackling these food issues in his work, but Pollan
himself, who feels realer here, open and willing to discuss and debate, than he
does in his more formal books and articles. Even though Pollan published his
letter on his website, available for anyone to see, there is still a certain
authenticity to the way in which he works through the issues Mackey brings up. Pollan
sympathizes with his position of power, but also firmly wills him to do all the
good that he can with that. It
makes the often overwhelmingly giant issues of food systems in America more personal,
something that could really only happen in such a format.
No comments:
Post a Comment